Wednesday 16 October 2013

City and Guilds level 2, Module 1, chapter 2

This chapter was to collect a group of differing fabrics, from sheers to thicker and to use a variety of  threads, then determine which needed stabilising.

I have a large fabric stash so selected 10 as suggested. For each I either used a matching or contrasting thread. For the sheers I used a stabiliser, either nappy liner or water soluble support (aquafilm). For the heavier weights I didn't use stabiliser, but should have done on reflection. None of the samples were pressed after stitching. These samples will all be added to my notebook at pages 16 and 17.


This is my range of needles from which I chose what I thought would be the correct needle for both the fabric and the yarn. I used Madeira yarns throughout.


1. This is a piece of orangey-red organza. I stabilised it with Aquafilm and chose a blue tip (75) fine fabric needle and stitched simply in straight stitch. The sample stitched well and was well supported.


2. The fabric used is a lightweight Habotai silk stitched on Aquafilm with the same size needle and same yarn as sample 1.


3. This is a piece of lightweight polyester crepe backed with nappy liner and straight stitched with a yellow contrasting Madeira yarn. I noted some slight puckering and wondered whether I should have used a stronger backing to prevent the puckering.


4. I used a piece of wool mohair for this piece, unsupported at is close woven and fairly heavy. I decided to use a triple needle and threaded three lilac/purple yarns, one on my top thread and two in small bowls behind my machine. I have never used this needle combination before and was really pleased with the effect - interesting and I'm sure I will use it again.


5. I kept the triple needle in the machine and changed the threads to match the fabric. As the velvet is lightweight, I backed it with nappy liner and it stitched really nicely. I like this piece very much.


6. I kept the same three colours in the triple needle and used black unsupported felt. I decided to be a bit more adventurous with design even though using straight stitch. The contrasts are lovely and would look good on a larger piece.


7. I changed to a double eye needle for this piece of polyester satin and green thread. I had a poor result with bird-nesting of my thread so changed to backing the fabric with nappy liner and reverting to a blue tip fine fabric 75 needle. This worked reasonable well with a degree of puckering.


8.  I used an unsupported piece of a suede-like fabric and changed to a 100 needle to penetrate the material. I used three threads, a metallic gold, a variegated black/gold metallic and a yellow variegated. I wanted to make something more interesting whilst continuing to use straight stitching. I think that the result is pleasing.


9. This is a piece of slub silk. I tried to sew with the 100 needle unsupported and got a lot of puckering which I undid. I then used nappy liner (NL on photo) on a part of the fabric and still had puckering, so again behind a small piece of the fabric I used water soluble (WS) Aquafilm and was able to create a more regular result. Not very pleased with this one.


10. I used a piece of light weight poly cotton initially with no support (NS on photo). The fabric puckered so I slipped a small piece of nappy liner (NL) behind and still had puckering. After adding Aquafilm (WS) the result was better but on consideration this piece of fabric would have been much easier to stitch if it had been mounted in an embroidery hoop. I have had very good results with mid weight silk unsupported by stabiliser but mounted in a hoop, so should probably have treated this fabric similarly.

I have enjoyed trying different needles, threads and fabric weights and recording my results. It was a good discipline.

So on to Chapter 3!

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